Living In Mexico: San Miguel De Allende
Imagine a city set against a beautiful backdrop of mountains, lakes and canals. It's easy to see why this town has been described as the "Venice of North America" with its cobbled streets, stunning architecture and breathtaking views. But what do you do when you live in a place like this? We went to San Miguel de Allende to find out.
San Miguel de Allende is a World Heritage Site, which means it's been recognised for its cultural and historical significance. One of only two places in North America that made UNESCO's list, the city was founded more than 400 years ago by Spanish settlers sent by the viceroy of New Spain. They were looking for a new home after the Spanish had become disillusioned with life in Mexico City. They deliberately chose a region which was hot and dry, where water was abundant and the climate pleasant. It's known as El Triunfo de la Cruz (The Triumph of the Cross) because of its proximity to Pena Blanca Mountain.
San Miguel de Allende is also known as The Windy City and you can tell why when you're out walking in the centre. It has wind for a name and there's a lot of it – even, apparently, in the middle of July. But if you don't mind that kind of weather, then this is the kind of place you'll want to live in. Despite being thousands of miles from the sea and thousands more from Europe, it's a laid-back place with a laid-back lifestyle.
It's also a foodie's dream. The city has been described as having the most vibrant street food culture in North America and you can try local specialities all over town Рbut the best place to go is La Vi̱a Agriana, one of Mexico's most prestigious wineries, which sits on the banks of Lake Chapala.
Upstairs there's a restaurant offering an incredible view of the lake and all its rowing boats as well as a bar serving locally produced wine from all around Mexico. Downstairs you'll find a vineyard which dates back to the late 17th century. There are regular wine-tastings and if you make your way around the complex you'll come across a shop, a production plant and, further up, a tiny church with some rather impressive stained glass windows. Just imagine how many people have passed through the doors of this building over the last 300 years!
San Miguel de Allende is also known for its handicrafts – in particular for its leather-work. Traditionally, the leather for saddles and harnesses came from a town called La Calera, which is just across the border in Jalisco. Today it's one of Mexico's most important exporters and there are workshops around the place where leatherwork is still done by hand.
It's also a great place to buy regional foods such as cheese, olives and honey or to see traditional livestock like llamas, alpacas and mule deer.
And if you're into walking, then you'll love it here. There are miles of trails for every level of ability and the scenery is just amazing. You can head out to Pena Blanca Mountain where you'll find an observatory with a panoramic view of the city (which you can see in the photo above) and an incredibly steep narrow road up to a suspension bridge. The road is so steep that it's nicknamed La Fuente del Diablo (The Devil's Fountain).
If you're here in the afternoon a local horseman from the town of Cuernavaca will lead you down to El Ejido Waterfalls, which is said to be one of the most beautiful in Mexico. He'll give you a show on how to ride and build up your confidence before throwing you off. You'll need all the courage you can get to take this route, but it's worth all the effort.
Maybe you're more into museums, churches and art galleries. San Miguel has plenty of those too. The Casa de Allende is not a museum in itself; it's actually a country house, built by a Mexican general who fought for independence from Spain and named after his grandfather, who was born in San Miguel de Allende. The building is filled with antiques, some of which were brought from Spain and the rest found in San Miguel. It's also got a beautiful courtyard with a fountain and gardens, which are great places to relax.
And if you're into your art then it doesn't get much better than the Museo El Templo del Humaya, which is inside a 19th-century church.
Conclusion
It's obvious that San Miguel de Allende has something special. The architecture, food and landscapes are outstanding, while the people are warm and friendly. And there's also a real energy to this place that somehow feels like it's just waiting to be discovered.
But what are you going to do when you leave? There's so much to see, do and explore in Mexico that it could take years to get round even half of it.